Guatemala is a country you feel in the knees: cobbles in Antigua, a lancha that slaps across Lake Atitlán, and a dawn walk at Tikal when the howler monkeys start before the tour groups. Volcanoes sit in every postcard for a reason. The highlands speak Spanish and a map of Mayan languages that will humble anyone who packed one phrasebook.
Eat pepian, kak'ik or whatever the comedor is actually cooking that day. Market days in Chichicastenango are a colour you cannot photograph honestly. The tourist shuttle is how most visitors move between Antigua, Panajachel and Flores. The chicken bus — a recycled US school bus in a paint job — is the country's real circulatory system, louder and cheaper and not a romance if you have a hard case.
A first trip is Antigua plus the lake, or the lake plus Tikal if you can stand the extra flight or the long road to Flores. Do not try to collect every pueblo in ten days. The country rewards a week in one basin more than a highlight reel that only sees the inside of a van.